Going Away Dinner: Pancetta-Wrapped Asparagus with Citronette

Food & Wine (May 2008)

Our friends Will and Haven recently left D.C. for the other Washington. Before they moved, though, they said they wanted to cook something for The Bitten Word. For their Going Away Dinner, we wanted a meal that was delicious, of course, but also fun for a group to make together.

We had them over last week, on a positively gorgeous Thursday evening -- late spring in D.C. is one of the most glorious times of year anywhere (take that, Seattle!). We settled on a light, refreshing Italian menu that showcased some delicious in-season vegetables.

The meal could not have gotten off to a better start, with this appetizer of Pancetta-Wrapped Asparagus with Citronette.

You must, must, must make this asparagus the next time you're cooking for a crowd.  It's the simplest, most delicious appetizer possible. We've already found one asparagus recipe we really like, but this dish has one key advantage -- pancetta.

It couldn't be simpler to make -- wrap the asparagus in pancetta, throw it in the fridge, have a glass of wine, take it out and grill it.  The combo of flavors is absolutely delicious -- the salty, crispy pancetta with the smooth, sweet citronette and the spring-y crunch of the asparagus. 

The next time we make this dish, we'll be sure to seek out thinly thinly sliced pancetta.  If anything, the packaged pancetta we purchased was too thick, but regardless, the taste was amazing. 

And Will and Haven are now both aces with a microplane!

Pancetta-Wrapped Asparagus with Citronette
Food & Wine (May 2008)

(This photo: Food & Wine)

Ingredients

    * 2 pounds medium asparagus
    * 1/2 pound very thinly sliced pancetta
    * Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange
    * 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
    * 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
    * Salt and freshly ground pepper
    * 2 teaspoons chopped thyme

Directions

1. Tightly wrap each asparagus spear in a slice of pancetta and refrigerate until chilled, about 20 minutes.

2. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. In a small bowl, stir the orange zest and juice with the mustard and olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Grill the asparagus over moderate heat, turning often, until they are just tender and the pancetta is crisp, about 5 minutes total. Transfer the asparagus to a platter and drizzle with the dressing. Sprinkle with the thyme and serve.

Comments

[Karyn]

Mmm; asparagus! That citronette looks incredible, too -- such great color!

[DocChuck]

Well, since I am more or less a "neighbor" to you guys in Washington, D.C. (my wife and I live in Columbia), I must comment on your post.

I read the recipe in F&W and tried it. But once again, I found that the use of pancetta (which is SOOoo "chic" with today's NYC and internet "gourmet chefs") simply overpowered the subtle and wonderful flavor of the fresh, spring asparagus.

Pancetta is very good, although I am NOT quite certain "good" for what ... breakfast maybe?

But ruining the flavor of wonderful fresh asparagus seems culinarily criminal to me.

I will be SOOoo glad when the era of the "celebrity chef" goes the way of the dinosaur. Then, perhaps we "culinary illiterates" will once again be permitted to think for ourselves.

[kellypea]

Although I do enjoy asparagus a variety of ways -- including just plain steamed with a bit of salt and a squeeze of lemon -- I have tried a version of it wrapped with pancetta and it's quite delicious. I love pancetta (have for years and don't think it has anything to do with NYC or internet gourmet chefs since I live in San Diego and am a home cook...) I thoroughly enjoy trying all kinds of recipes and it's all the more special when a great group of friends comes over for dinner like you've described above. Sounds wonderful!

[michelle @ TNS]

i just picked up this magazine, and i gravitated right to this recipe. because i gravitate to anything made with pork.

mmm, pork.

[ntsc]

The asparagus patch is humming away and the pancetta has hung long enough. Tomorrow perhaps.

[Zach at The Bitten Word]

I love asparagus on its own, too! I probably ate it two other times last week.

But it's sometimes great to mix it up -- and it's ALWAYS great to mix it up with pancetta/bacon.

[Clay @ The Bitten Word]

DocChuck - Well, the recipe comes from Mario Batali, so I guess it's not surprising that it uses pancetta. Still, I feel like there's a time to enjoy asparagus on its own, and another time to slather it in meat and throw it on the grill. This happened to be the latter!

kellypea - No one EVER needs to apologize for bacon on this blog! :)